Van Cleef & Arpels

A Stunning Vintage Diamond and Platinum ‘Flame’ Brooch

A stunning platinum and diamond ‘Flame’ brooch by Van Cleef & Arpels, c.1940s, the brooch of undulating tapering form in a gentle S-shape, set with two rows of brilliant cut diamonds embellished at one end with a graduated line of step-cut diamonds, all in platinum channel settings, with a curved single pin brooch fitting to the reverse.

Further Details

OriginNew York
Condition ReportVery fine
SettingPlatinum signed Van Cleef & Arpels NY and numbered
Weight description11 grams
Dimensions7.4cm / 2.9” long and 0.8cm / 0.3” at widest point
Gemstones40 x brilliant and single cut diamonds estimated to weigh a combined total of approximately 4cts
36 x square and rectangular step cut diamonds estimated to weigh a combined total of approximately 1.4cts

Directors Notes

This instantly recognisable, iconic jewel was introduced by VCA in 1934. The beautifully curved shape with contrasting round and baguette shaped stones was part of the new wave of jewellery designed during the late 20s and early 30s to appeal to the modern woman. The design proved hugely popular and can be seen featured in many of the books about the famous Maison. Jackie Kennedy who had a discerning eye for fabulous jewellery owned a pair of these brooches.

Literature & Exhibitions

See: Van Cleef & Arpels – The Art of High Jewellery, Évelyne Possémé, p.89 for a pair of similar Flame Clips which are part of the Van Cleef & Arpels archive collection
Van Cleef & Arpels – Reflections of Eternity, plate nos. 134 & 135 for a pair of similar Flame Clips and a picture of Jackie Kennedy wearing her pair of flame brooches.
Van Cleef & Arpels, S.Raulet, p.117


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Van Cleef & Arpels

On June 16th 1906 Van Cleef & Arpels opened the doors to their first boutique at number 22, Place Vendôme. Next door to Lalique, opposite the Ritz and a stones throw from Boucheron, this would prove to be the first of many boutiques that the highly successful Maison would open around the world during the 20th Century.

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