A Rare and Unusual Antique Gold Brooch Designed by Edward C. Moore

A rare and unusual gold brooch by Tiffany & Co. c.1870, the elongated rectangular shaped panel with pointed domed ends in 18ct yellow gold, finely decorated with twisted gold wirework in an Islamic inspired asymmetric pattern featuring curved and scrolled shapes intertwined with the name Fannie spelled out in stylised linear geometric letters, with a single long pin brooch fitting to the reverse.

This brooch was made during the late 1860s to early 1870s and was designed by Edward Moore, the chief designer and manager of Tiffany’s silverware department. The silver workshop of John C. Moore and Son had been exclusively retailing their work through Tiffany since 1851 and having inherited the business from his father, Edward made the decision to sell the business to Tiffany in 1868 remaining as manager and chief designer.

As well as being a gifted designer and silversmith, Moore was also a fervent collector and passionate educator. He was fascinated by the art and culture of different civilisations around the world and his frequent travels both informed and facilitated his collecting. Wanting to share the objects he amassed and allow them to inspire others as well as himself, he set up a design room filled with artifacts from hugely diverse origins such as ancient Greece and Rome, Persia, Syria, India, Turkey and Japan. Alongside these was an extensive library of books and all were available to the Tiffany & Co. staff and apprentices with the aim of inspiring creativity and fostering an understanding of beauty outside of the American aesthetic.

Moore filled many a sketch book with design ideas – shapes, patterns and colour combinations were all inspired by his carefully curated pieces. He was especially interested in the art and ornament of Islamic design and the influence of that can be seen in this brooch. The jewellery produced by the silversmithing department under the guidance of Moore is very rare so we were particularly excited to acquire this wonderful piece. There is a similar brooch in the Tiffany Heritage Collection but that one is decorated with enamel as well as wirework.

Whilst he is less well known than many of the designers who have worked with Tiffany, it is not an exaggeration to say that Edward Moore revolutionised design at Tiffany during the latter decades of the 19th century and this brooch is a wonderful testament to his creative force and inspiration and a rare opportunity to acquire a piece of Tiffany history.

Further Details

Condition ReportVery fine
Setting18ct yellow gold signed Tiffany & Co.
Weight description22 grams
Dimensions9.8cm / 3.85" long
1.8cm / 0.70" wide in the centre and 2.30cm / 0.90" wide at the ends
PeriodLate 1860s - early 1870s


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In 1837 an ambitious young man called Charles Tiffany borrowed $1000 from his father and set up shop with his friend John B. Young selling “stationary and fancy goods”. Today his name is synonymous with American style and luxury and Tiffany jewellery is worn by the world’s most elegant women.

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