A Bold Modernist Gold Square Ring Set With An Oval Tourmaline

A bold modernist gold and tourmaline ring designed by Jean Dinh Van for Cartier c.1970, the ring with square profile and cube-like form made in 18ct yellow gold and bezel-set to the top with an oval faceted deep pink tourmaline. Jean Dinh Van worked for Cartier for many years before setting up his own workshop in 1965. He went on to collaborate with designers such as Pierre Cardin for whom he designed the ‘Two Pearl’ ring in 1967 which was remarkable for its square shaped shank. The shape of this ring would inspire many variations over the years and is now deemed so significant that it is part of the permanent collection of the Musée des Arts Décoratifs. Further collaborations with clients as diverse as Paco Rabanne and De Beers followed and, most significantly, with his old employer Cartier. Today, pieces like this ring that carry both the Cartier and Dinh Van signatures are particularly collectable. It is a wonderfully sleek jewel that still looks remarkable modern despite being fifty years old.