Van Cleef & Arpels

Gold, Ruby and Diamond Earrings c.1980s

A pair of gold, ruby and diamond ‘sertie invisible’ earrings by Van Cleef & Arpels, c.1980’s, the tapering curved panel-shaped earrings split diagonally across the centre, the upper parts set with calibre cut rubies in the ‘sertie invisible’ style and the lower pavé set with round brilliant cut diamonds, all in 18ct yellow gold with clip fittings.

Further Details

OriginFrance made for the New York market, Paris
Gemstones and Other MaterialsSquare calibre cut Burma rubies estimated to weigh a total of 3.80cts 80 round brilliant cut diamonds estimated to weigh a total of 2.60cts
Condition ReportExtremely fine
Setting18ct yellow gold with French assay marks and makers signature & numbers
Weight description24.5 grams
Dimensions2.3 cms longs x 1.4 cms wide at bottom

Directors Notes

In 1934 Van Cleef & Arpels obtained an exclusive patent for their technique called Sertie Invisible or ‘invisible setting’. Invisibly­set jewellery results in a cluster or paving of stones without visible claws or signs of metal. Rubies and sapphires that are perfectly matched in colour were used most often and at later stages, the workshops experimented with diamonds. A gold or platinum frame perfectly holds in place each specially cut stone which slides into the setting along special grooves allowing them to take the form of the jewel. Invisibly­set jewellery, a term used exclusively for jewels by Van Cleef & Arpels, is highly sought after by collectors.

Literature & Exhibitions

See Sylvie Raulet Van Cleef & Arpels, Edition du Regard, 1986


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Van Cleef & Arpels

On June 16th 1906 Van Cleef & Arpels opened the doors to their first boutique at number 22, Place Vendôme. Next door to Lalique, opposite the Ritz and a stones throw from Boucheron, this would prove to be the first of many boutiques that the highly successful Maison would open around the world during the 20th Century.

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