A Bold Antique Gold, Enamel and Gem Set Hinged Bangle

A bold and striking gold, enamel and gem set bangle by Carlo Giuliano c.1870s, the bangle made in 18ct gold and with a wide square section profile, the front with five graduated rectangular boxes hinged together underneath and with open sides which allows the bangle to flex as it opens via the concealed tongue and box clasp at centre back. Each box motif is decorated to the top with a vertical row of three faceted rubies or sapphires within a rose cut diamond frame surrounded by canted edges with twisted gold wirework decoration in a zig zag pattern highlighted with black enamel, the inner sides decorated with white enamel and the ends with an oval flower motif in green enamel centred with either a ruby or sapphire cabochon. Giuliano was an accomplished craftsman and his early work focused largely on Revivalist designs. Whilst he avoided making exact copies of ancient jewels, he was very inspired by archaeological jewellery and the techniques that were used whilst adapting them to suite the tastes and fashions of the period. He became renowned for exceptional craftsmanship, beautifully detailed enamel work and his use of unusual combinations of gems such as lapis lazuli, zircons, fire opals and pearls, favouring cabochons as readily as faceted gems. Brooches, bracelets, necklaces, earrings and tiaras all received the Giuliano touch and combined contemporary wearability with the Renaissance aesthetic that he found so inspiring. This bracelet is wonderfully sculptural and three dimensional in its form with definite nods to antiquity in its decoration. It is comfortable and surprisingly wearable whilst very much a statement jewel.

Further Details

MakerCarlo Giuliano
Condition ReportVery fine
Setting18ct gold signed C.G. for Carlo Giuliano and marked 6P4
Weight description82 grams
DimensionsInner circumference 7" / 17.7cm
0.9" / 2.3cm wide at centre front
0.5" / 1.2cm wide at centre back
Gemstones6 x cabochon rubies and 9 x faceted rubies estimated to weigh a combined total of 3.2cts
4 x cabochon sapphires and 6 x faceted sapphires estimated to weigh a combined total of 2.8cts
160 x rose cut diamonds estimated to weigh a combined total of approximately 2ct


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The Italian jeweller Carlo Giuliano (1831-1895) came to London in about 1860. Little biographical detail is known of him prior to this except that he very likely trained under and worked for Castellani in Rome.

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