With sunnier days already here and the easing of lockdown restrictions allowing us to look forward to weddings and celebrations we thought it fitting to share this beautiful tiara as Hancocks London’s Jewel of the Month for April.
The contemporary en tremblant diamond and platinum floral tiara was made by the London jewellery manufacturing firm E. Wolfe & Co., jewellery designer/makers renowned for employing exceptional craftsmen. Founded in 1850, many top jewellery houses including Hancocks London and the Crown Jewellers, have utilised their expertise. The tiara itself is formed of delicate floral and foliate sprays, set to the centre with a large fully open five petalled wild rose set en tremblant with two further matching rose motifs, one to each side, also en tremblant, all finely hand crafted in platinum and fully pavé set with round brilliant cut diamonds and with pear shaped diamonds weighing a combined total of 22.50cts. The tiara has been cleverly designed and made to be convertible to ensure maximum wear and flexibility. It can be removed from its frame and attached to a diamond-set back chain to be worn as a necklace as well as the roses converting to a brooch and pair of earrings.
Guy Burton of Hancocks London says: “The tiara is based on E. Wolfe & Co.’s archival design from 1904 by Otto Daumiller, the brother-in-law of the firm’s founder Mr Wolfe. It was discovered in one of the many sketchbooks in their archives and was updated to include the en tremblant fittings which enhance the beauty of the tiara by breathing life and movement into it when worn. We have seen a steady increase in the popularity of tiaras over the last couple of years and we feel this beautiful floral tiara offers a perfect marriage of tradition and modernity. An antique design brought up to date with an eye on versatility as well as beauty, this tiara is undoubtedly an antique of the future.’’
During the 20th century E. Wolfe & Co. specialised in designing and making tiaras, hundreds of different designs and styles were produced by their workshop, earning them the nickname ‘The Tiara Makers’. Many of these were highly important tiaras for the Royal family and Otto Daumiller personally designed Queen Alexandra’s 1902 Coronation Crown (made by Wolfe on behalf of Carrington & Co.) as well as The Imperial Crown of India (made by Wolfe for Garrard & Co.) which was worn by King George V to the Delhi Durbar in 1911. Perhaps the most famous Royal tiara made by the firm was the Russian Fringe Tiara which they made for Garrard in 1917. Today, it is best known as Queen Elizabeth II’s wedding tiara and it has subsequently been worn by both her daughter Princess Anne and most recently her granddaughter Princess Beatrice on their respective wedding days.