Lorenzo Marzo was a jeweller of Spanish origin who worked for his uncle’s silversmithing business in Madrid before moving to Paris where he established his own jewellers. He registered his maker’s mark on July 6th 1901 and gave his address as 207, rue Saint-Honoré although later the firm moved to 22 Rue de la Paix and also opened stores in Biarritz and Madrid. They sold a range of jewels in keeping with contemporary fashions and style. Existing pieces such as a delicate seed pearl and diamond Belle Époque bow brooch and a stunning emerald and diamond tiara show us that Marzo were competing at the top end of the jewellery market.
However, it is the bold and striking Art Deco jewels which epitomised the aesthetic of the 20’s and 30’s for which they are best remembered. Large faceted stones of amethyst and aquamarine were set into rings, pendants and brooches and accented with pavé diamonds and sometimes black enamel. Smooth cabochons of blackest onyx were contrasted with the brilliant sparkle of white diamonds and the vivid colour of orange coral.
They exhibited at the 1925 L’Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris where they won a Grand Prix for their designs. A page from the exhibition catalogue illustrates an elegant pair of long drop earrings set with pear shape cabochon emeralds, a stylish geometric panel bracelet and an oriental inspired trellis work brooch with floral and paisley style motifs in ruby, sapphire and emeralds within a diamond set frame. In 1927 Lorenzo was awarded the Légion d’honneur but sadly passed away just two years later in 1929 when his son Rafael assumed control of the business.
Marzo jewellery is beautifully designed, finely crafted and hard to find today. Many pieces look as stylish and contemporary today as they did almost a hundred years ago meaning they are still highly wearable even now.