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Ernest Membré

circa 1900
A beautiful French Art Nouveau yellow gold, enamel and pearl floral pendant necklace.
£28,500.00
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Description

Details

A French Art Nouveau gold, enamel, diamond and pearl floral pendant necklace, the elongated fluted central plaque of pale green plique-à-jour enamel overlaid with naturalistic carnation flowers and buds in yellow and reddish enamel with rose-cut diamond highlights, amidst long intertwined leaves of gold, green enamel and further rose-cut diamonds, with a natural pearl drop suspended below from an articulated diamond set surmount, all to a fancy link yellow gold chain set at intervals with four additional flower and bud motifs, enamelled and diamond-set to both sides, circa 1900.
Specifications
  • OriginFrance
  • Gemstones and Other Materials1 natural pearl 14.48gns 60 rose-cut diamonds 0.35cts approx
  • Condition ReportExtremely fine, clear French assay marks and maker's mark for Ernest Membré, partially obscured
  • Setting18ct yellow gold with French assay and maker's marks
  • Weight description43 grams
  • DimensionsPendant: 9.20cm / 3½" Chain: 51.00cm / 20"
Directors notes
Ernest Membré was a French jeweller who specialised in beautiful enamel work for which he was well known, as noted by Henri Vever in his indispensable guide to 19th Century French jewellery ‘La Bijouterie Française au XIXe Siècle’. The enamel work seen in this piece typifies the skilful craftsmanship, variety of technique and masterful shading of colour that the finest quality French Art Nouveau jewellery is renowned for. The carnations are rendered in red and yellow enamel which have been blended together to create shades of orange and peach alongside the greens of the stems and leaves rendered using both plique-a-jour and champlevé techniques. Married to this is the beauty of the floral composition, the fluidity of the goldwork and the clever way the design is repeated around the chain in a harmonious continuation of motif. As one would expect, the gemstones, in this case rose-cut diamonds and a baroque natural pearl, are used simply to highlight the design rather than play a starring role.
Literature & exhibitions
Henri Vever ‘La Bijouterie Française au XIXe Siècle’ p1174 for reference to Membré and for details of his makers mark please see 'Art Nouveau Jewellery' by Joseph Sataloff p104.

Membre, Ernest

Ernest Membré was a French jeweller who specialised in beautiful enamel work for which he was well known, as noted by Henri Vever in his indispensable guide to 19th Century French jewellery and jewellers ‘La Bijouterie Française au XIXe Siècle’.  

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