Rare tortoisehell and 18ct yellow gold haircomb surmounted by an openwork gold panel decorated in relief with gothic-style architectural elements including a central fleur-de-lis flanked either side by arches, trefoils and quatrefoils Louis Wièse c1890
House/Maker
Wièse
Period
c1890s
Origin
Paris, France
Setting
18ct yellow gold treated with mercury oxide with French assay marks and maker's stamp for Louis Wièse used post-1890
Dimensions
Gold panel 10.65 x 4cmTotal 10.65 x 9.60cmIn a Wièse fitted case
Literature
Cf: Michael Koch, The Belle Epoque of French Jewellery 1850-1910, Thomas Heneage, London, 1990, page 94-109 This section gives a good discussion of Wièse and his work and discusses his use of the gothic and archaeological styles.
Directors Notes
Louis Wièse went to considerable lengths to give his jewels the appearance of age. His archaeological revival pieces were treated with mercury oxide, producing a reddish patina intended to give the impression that his jewels were ancient artefacts recovered from the ground. Using high carat gold and deliberately having the gold work slightly misshapen also adds to the illusion that this could be an ancient jewel were it not for the Wiese signature at the bottom of the panel.
