House/Maker

Cartier Paris

Period

c1980

Origin

French

Gemstones

yellow brilliant cut diamonds in earrings est 10.50cts,yellow brilliant cut diamonds in brooch est 15cts,baguette diamonds est 1.00cts,navette emeralds est.20cts and onyx est 3.00cts.total est weight of diamonds est 26.50cts.

Setting

Handmade 18ct yellow gold mounting.

Dimensions

brooch 6cm high x 5.5cm wide,earrings 3.5cm x 3.5cm.

Literature

For more similar items see pages 212:

Platinum by Cartier triumphs of the Jeweler’s Art by F Cologni

& E Nussbaum

& page 208

Cartier design viewed by Ettore Scottsass

Provenance

The 'Great Cats' are the most famous of the celebrated menagerie of jewels created by Jeanne Toussaint(1887-1978). She worked closely with Louis Cartier and had the rather exotic and evocative pet name 'The Panther', apparently in part due to the panther carpets scattered throughout her home. In 1934 she was made responsible for the Haute-Joaillerie at Cartier, working closely with fellow designer Peter Lemarchand and in 1948 she created the historic first three dimensional Panther brooch for the Duke and Duchess of Windsor. A powerful interpretation of a panther, the gold creature decorated with black enamel spots crouched on a large cabochon emerald. Jeanne Toussaint went on to create more fabulous 'Cats' for the Duchess, one of the most exceptional being the sapphire and diamond Panther clip. Made in 1949, it was sold in the 1987 Sotheby's Geneva sale of the Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor for CHF 1,540,000 ($1,026,667) and is now in the Art of Cartier Collection.

From the 1950's the Cartier Cat jewels became an object of desire and admiration for many fashion icons and society ladies. Exotic tigers and panthers were crafted in all forms of jewellery to adorn these ladies of style, among the most notable were Daisy Fellowes and Barbara Hutton. The 'Cats' created by Cartier are one of their most remarkable and recognisable designs.

Our Ref

STS-115913

Price

£250,000 to £500,000  REQUEST QUOTATION